The designation of purified or degummed is defined by the process used to remove the proteins and impurities in flax oil to create a high-quality linseed oil for wood surface preservation. Many conventional linseed oil products, which are not purified/degummed can go rancid, cause mildew, and attract bugs.

Practices and opinions vary on the processing of Purified Linseed Oil, as well as what is truly considered a raw linseed oil vs. a boiled linseed oil. The distinctions listed below are chosen by Earth+Flax to clarify the proper use of these products for the US market. Ottosson Boiled Linseed Oil: This is a purified/degummed linseed oil made from Ottosson Raw Linseed Oil. It is heated at a lower temp for an extended period of time, creating a drying linseed oil with a larger molecular structure. It is a primary ingredient in Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint. As a result of this process, it is excellent for creating a "primer" when painting interior trim for example (30% Linseed Oil Paint to 70% Ottosson Boiled Linseed Oil) on a bare wood surface. The Ottosson Boiled Linseed Oil offers a slightly faster dry time in comparison to the Viking Purified Raw Linseed Oil. Viking Purified Raw Linseed: Some, especially some Swedes, may argue that this is a boiled linseed oil as it is a heated, drying oil. It is made from food-grade flax oil from North Dakota. Once purified/degummed in Upstate NY, it is then heated once to 400+ degrees, resulting in a smaller molecular structure in comparison to a traditional boiled linseed oil. The end result is an exceptionally pale oil with superior penetrative properties. A very versatile oil, this product can be used with the Authentic Pine Tar, to create a custom Linseed Oil Stain, or used alone as an interior/exterior finish. Ottosson or Allback Raw Linseed Oil: This is a purified/degummed linseed oil that is typically left to settle out for a season or two outside. It is heated by the sun. It has a small molecular structure, excellent penetration, but a very, very long dry time. At Earth+Flax, we prefer folks to use this option, when available, with some caution as when mixed with Linseed Oil Paint for example, it will extend dry time excessively. This traditional "Swedish" raw linseed oil, as we may refer to it, is excellent for storing paint brushes in (wipe off any excess raw oil before painting again) or for applying to wood before removing paint with an infrared paint remover. Linseed oil soaked rags can self-ignite. Dampen and dispose of to avoid a fire hazard.

No, Linseed Oil Paint or any purified linseed oil-based product is not combustible/flammable in the can or when applied to a surface. Linseed oil is a self-heating oil (heats as it dries) like rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, peanut and corn oil, etc. Simply dampen and dispose of oil soaked rags, crumpled paper towels, etc. to avoid a fire hazard.

Ideally, you should paint or apply any of the natural coatings in 60+ degree weather with good air circulation. Ensure a clean, dry surface before application. The moisture content of the substrate should not exceed 15%. 40 degrees or below, dry time will basically come to a standstill so take this into account. Perhaps it is warm when you are painting and then drops in temperature in the evening. This will extend your dry time. All products should be kept at room temperature or warmer before painting to ensure a good flow during application. If you are painting inside during the winter months, ensure your ambient temps are warm enough and set up some fans to promote air circulation.

No, Linseed Oil Paint is not like conventional oil paint. This is a common misconception. We cannot stress the difference enough. Linseed Oil Paint is manufactured from a natural linseed oil (derived from flax oil, grown from the flax plant) and can be painted without a solvent. It is derived from organic matter and can be 100% petrochemical free. Oil paint, on the other hand, is based on a modified oil, often a synthetic alkyd oil (derived from crude oil manufacturing), and requires solvents to be paintable. Sometimes such oil paint may include "linseed oil" in the ingredients but contains only a very small amount of linseed oil.

All the Linseed Oil Paint brands available at Earth+Flax are similar in their basic formulation: purified/degummed linseed oil (processed from flax oil), natural pigments (primarily oxides), and whiting/chalk. Both the Viking and Ottosson brands are solvent-free and include zinc (the same zinc used in natural sunscreen), a natural fungicide that creates a slightly harder painted finish. The Ottosson brand is 100% petrochemical free, and may be used for both interior and exterior applications. The Viking brand includes a small percentage of paraffin (a wax used in many conventional soap products), therefore it is not 100% petrochemical free. It is formulated for exterior applications only. The Allback brand is similar to the Ottosson brand but does not include zinc. We suggest using the correct amount of the zinc additive in all Allback Linseed Oil Paint colors for projects in North America. We are in the process of moving entirely over to the Viking and Ottosson brands.

A relatively thin, even coat of Linseed Oil Paint typically dries in 48 hrs in 60+ degree temperatures and with good air circulation. Conditions may necessitate more time, especially if you are working indoors and find it hard to ensure good air circulation - allow for this. There are no synthetic driers in the Linseed Oil Paint brands available at Earth+Flax. In comparison to modern, plastic paints, the dry time will be naturally longer but that longer dry time is also a reason for why it lasts so much longer than most conventional coatings on the market. If painting bare wood inside, such as trim, doors, furniture, etc. use the Boiled Linseed Oil for your “primer” coat for a slightly faster dry time. If your dry time is much longer than usual, it may indicate you are applying too much paint per coat.

All the Linseed Oil Paint available at Earth+Flax is made with purified/degummed linseed oil so the protein or food value in the oil has been removed. The paint and Purified Oil products do not propagate mildew or organic growth but there are factors in every environment that can still make organic growth possible. We suggest using a Linseed Oil Paint with zinc, a natural fungicide for organic growth protection. We also recommend you examine design considerations like how water or moisture is moving away from a structure, whether the gutters are working effectively or need to be cleaned, is there standing water around a structure when it rains, or if there are plantings close to the foundation or against the siding, etc. Reach out to info@earthandflax.com for more strategies regarding organic growth, especially if you see it occurring currently or are located in a wooded environment.

Yes, Linseed Oil Paint adheres to almost any clean, dry surface. This includes plastic, metal, asbestos shingles, cement, masonry, etc. Keep in mind, the best case scenario is a bare surface, especially for wood so the Linseed Oil Paint can soak into the substrate. If a barrier exists such as an old acrylic or latex coating, you will not be getting all the advantages of using a breathable paint and can expect variation in your maintenance requirements. Linseed Oil Paint is only as good as the surface on which it is applied. If the old coating is failing or fails in the future, it will take your Linseed Oil Paint with it. Using Linseed Oil Paint is a great option depending on budget and time constraints, as you will certainly get better results in comparison to using a conventional plastic paint on top of a failing coating.

This is called “flashing” and indicates the wood is either very dry and soaking in the natural oil unevenly based on the natural structure of the substrate. It is not a big issue as flashing usually disappears after the 2nd coat or with UV exposure. To avoid flashing, consider using the Purified Boiled Linseed Oil as it doesn’t penetrate as deeply as the Purified Raw. Also, ensure that each coat of Linseed Oil Paint is completely dry before the application of the next coat. You want to make sure that you are effectively building up the paint film with each coat and if the last coat is not dry when you apply your next coat, it will be much less effective. If you paint needs an extra day or two to dry, allow for this. A slower dry time allows Linseed Oil Paint to have a much more flexible paint film.

Linseed Oil Paint or any of the traditional coatings should always be applied to a clean, dry surface. Bare wood surface: Use a non-petrochemical liquid soap or Linseed Oil Soap with water to remove dirt build-up, air pollution build-up, organic growth, etc. Rinse well and let dry completely before the application of any natural coating. Most of the traditional coatings, including a Linseed Oil Stain, Authentic Pine Tar, Linseed Oil Varnish, etc. should be applied to a bare wood surface in order to soak in and dry properly. Previously painted surface (modern oil, acrylic, latex coatings, etc.): Linseed Oil Paint can be applied on top of a previously painted surface. Remember, Linseed Oil Paint is only as good as the surface on which it is applied. If the old coating is failing or fails in the future, it will take your Linseed Oil Paint with it. Remove as much of the loose old paint or coating as possible. Clean if needed with a non-petrochemical liquid soap or Linseed Oil Soap with water to remove dirt build-up, air pollution build-up, organic growth, etc. Rinse well and let dry completely before the application of Linseed Oil Paint. Previously painted surface (Linseed Oil Paint): Gently clean with a diluted non-petrochemical liquid soap or Linseed Oil Soap with water to remove dirt build-up, air pollution build-up, organic growth, etc. Rinse well and let dry completely before the application of a nourishing coat of Purified Linseed Oil or Linseed Oil Paint. Always avoid power washing as it introduces too much moisture into a porous wood surface.

Yes, Linseed Oil Putty should be painted immediately with Linseed Oil Paint. Do not wait for the putty to skin over. Apply your glazing for window restoration or use the putty as a general purpose wood filler for small cracks/holes and immediately paint with Linseed Oil Paint. If not painted immediately, wait until the Linseed Oil Putty cures completely before painting with Linseed Oil Paint. Timeframe for the putty to cure can vary based on conditions: sometimes 2+ weeks. Again, we recommend you glaze each sash and paint immediately. Plan your work accordingly when using the traditional materials to take advantage of this time saving step. If using a modern plastic paint, you must also wait until the Linseed Oil Putty fully cures before painting. Timeframe for the putty to cure can vary based on conditions: sometimes 2+ weeks. Do not use it as a filler when using conventional paints. Generally speaking, we don't encourage mixing modern and traditional materials together. Stick to one realm of products aka use like-with-like (traditional Swedish Windowcraft methods or modern paints, fillers, driers, etc.) as you will get the best results with both that way.

Use a high quality, fine-bristle or filament brush and apply relatively thin, even coats. Another trick, especially useful for interior cabinetry and furniture or for painting on metal, is to use a clean cloth and wipe on the paint in relatively thin, even coats.

We call this “orange peel” and can happen when working with real oil paint. It indicates that too much Linseed Oil Paint has been applied. A little Linseed Oil Paint goes a long way. Not only is it cost effective to apply relatively thin, even coats, it also avoids this orange peel effect where the top-side and under-side of the paint layer is drying at different rates, causing it to wrinkle. It may be possible to clean off the paint you applied with Linseed Oil Soap, rinse well, let dry completely, and repaint. Try to apply relatively thin, even coats with a stiff bristle brush or clean cloth to avoid this scenario. Practice your painting technique on a scrap piece of wood if you are new to Linseed Oil Paint.

This is called “flashing” and indicates the wood is either very dry and soaking in the natural oil unevenly based on the natural structure of the substrate. It is not a big issue as flashing usually disappears after the 2nd coat or with UV exposure. To avoid flashing, consider using the Purified Boiled Linseed Oil as it doesn’t penetrate as deeply as the Purified Raw. Also, ensure that each coat of Linseed Oil Paint is completely dry before the application of the next coat. You want to make sure that you are effectively building up the paint film with each coat and if the last coat is not dry when you apply your next coat, it will be much less effective. If you paint needs an extra day or two to dry, allow for this. A slower dry time allows Linseed Oil Paint to have a much more flexible paint film.

Yes, both Linseed Oil Paint and Authentic Pine Tar can be applied to pressure treated wood but we recommend you wait a season or two for the PT wood to dry out before applying any of the traditional coatings so they can soak in effectively. If you apply right away, no harm will be done necessarily but the wood will probably not be able to soak in much of the oil-based coating i.e. it may simply drip right off, leading to product waste and less then ideal results. Once the wood is more absorbent, then the traditional finishes can soak into the substrate and be more effective.

No, Pine Tar must be applied to a clean, dry, bare wood surface in order to soak in and dry properly. You can of course apply more Pine Tar upon a previously painted/stained Pine Tar surface. If an old stain exists on the wood, many folks have great luck cleaning/scrubbing off the old coating with Linseed Oil Soap, hose water (avoid power washing), and a stiff deck brush (or other abrasive like a scrub pad). Rinse well and let dry fully before doing a test to see if the wood grain is able to successfully absorb the Pine Tar mixture. If not, some scraping and/or sanding may be necessary to remove the stubborn modern coating and achieve a bare, wood surface.

Yes, both Linseed Oil Paint and Authentic Pine Tar can be applied to pressure treated wood but we recommend you wait a season or two for the PT wood to dry out before applying any of the traditional coatings so they can soak in effectively. If you apply right away, no harm will be done necessarily but the wood will probably not be able to soak in much of the oil-based coating i.e. it may simply drip right off, leading to product waste and less then ideal results. Once the wood is more absorbent, then the traditional finishes can soak into the substrate and be more effective.

Our preferred method at Earth+Flax is infrared because of its lower operating temperature, lower risk of creating small particulate, lower risk of scorching/burning the wood, lack of steam/moisture or chemical stripping agents being introduced into the wood. It may seem a little more time-consuming in comparison to other paint removal options but the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience. It is always advisable to wear proper safety gear, including a respirator when removing all types of paint. Dampen and dispose of debris as directed by your local community waste management location, especially if lead may be present.

Maintenance will depend on the condition of the substrate: the dryness of the wood, if the coating was applied to a bare wood surface or a previously painted surface, etc. Linseed Oil Paint, Linseed Oil Stain, and Authentic Pine Tar for the most part will require a general cleaning every 5-10 years and a reapplication of Purified Linseed Oil to nourish the wood/maintain the pigmentation. Repainting or reapplying your coating is usually not necessary in the short-term unless some kind of surface damage has occurred to remove the pigmentation (caused by weather, animals, human activity, etc.). If not maintained in 40-50 years, the oil or binder in these coatings will simply dry out and disappear, causing the pigment to eventually chalk off. Even at this point, reapplication is pretty easy. Simply clean off, rinse, let dry, and re-apply your natural coating.

Use Linseed Oil Soap to clean hands and brushes. During your workday, you can leave your brushes in the Purified Raw Linseed Oil to avoid having to clean them every day. Eventually, the Viking Purified Raw Linseed Oil will begin to polymerize and your brushes will harden but it takes quite some time. When you are done with your project, brushes should be washed completely in undiluted Linseed Oil Soap. This will allow them to live a long, happy life. Wipe off any excess paint from your brush onto some paper towels. Rinse and repeat as needed to clean the bristles. Water should run clear. Hang upside down to dry. Dampen and dispose of paint soaked paper towels.